Is CJ still in business?

[tonye]

Update... so I got a hold of the guy who sold it to me... who is a dealer and knows the principals personally... including Jeff.

So, I got instructions to send it ATTN: Jeff Fischel.. and to quote the seller's name.

We'll see... I included the email chain with the service request form and I'm gonna ship it right now.

Nuts... it's simply nuts!

Note, I could have saved a round trip shipping if I had taken the seller's offer to take the ET3 down to the factory (4 miles from him) and have them do the work... but I wanted to perfect this transaction and make sure the preamp is working well. Besides, that gave me some time to get used to the sound of the "plain" ET3. Which, is actually quite good.

BTW, I replaced it, for the time being, with a DIY First Watt B1 Korg biased for 2nd order distortion ( you can bias it for 2nd or 3rd ). It also sounds really good, at a LOT less money. Actually, in some ways it sounds better than the ET3 ( the Korg is a triode like tube ) with more detail... but I think it's missing a little bit of "pace".

It's kind of hard to describe... how can something that has outstanding detail, great tone and a nice harmonic envelope still have less "pace"? Maybe I need to upgrade the volume pot and the power supply?

[admin]

Glad it worked out. I'm interested to hear what you think when you the upgraded unit back.

[tonye]

So, it turns out the fellow that sold me the ET3 got a hold of Jeff and he, Jeff, left me a message on my cell phone (I was downstairs, phone was upstairs when he called). I guess Jeff got to read the email thread... hopefully he'll be aware of the issues... you think?

And today I got an email from Jasmine!

Anyhow, everything is set.

The ET3 is now somewhere in the middle of the country. Packed in its factory box. Hopefully it'll get there by Friday and I should be in CJ Heaven sometime after we return from vacation.

Now, it'll be interesting when I replace the tubes in the PV9 and start listening... I will compare them with each other and the FW B1 Korg with is _really_ an extremely good sounding unit... with it's single triode Korg tube biased for 2nd harmonic. Preliminary listening tells me that the B1K will be the purer, the ET3 the most accurate ( less 2nd harmonic ) and the PV9 the "richer" and forgiving of bad recordings.... you couldn't go wrong with any of them. They're all tube preamps, after all.

[tonye]

Preamp is now playing tunes... no seriously... just burning the caps... I wonder how long?

Per Ed's instructions, I didn't take the PV9 Teflon upgrade too seriously for the first 400 hours..

However, even cold, is sounds really good.

What do I do with the PV9 now?

I still wonder if I should install the phono preamp, mostly for collectible completedness. I really don't need it and I don't care for its Lo/Hi hardwired options and limited loading. My DIY Pearl II is extremely flexible and with a BOM quality that matches ( likely exceeds in most areas ) the ET3SE.

[admin]

Very nice. As you get more play time it should start to sound even better. Just an amazing nice preamp introduced at a very competitive price. Enjoy the tunes.

[tonye]

I'm not quite sure if the factory did a burn in on this one.. I know that Ed put some 48++ hours into my PV9 when it got upgraded and then told me to let it run to 400. ( He also did a full retube ). The sound did indeed get better... MUCH better.

What i hear now is a slight "steeleyness" into Steve Perry's voice ( Best of Journey (*) ) from Tidal. Only when it gets loud. I know this is not the rest of the system since I know it.

But the dynamics of the sound are effortless and it has very good soundstaging.

I will keep it warmed up all weekend.

Oh, one thing about the ergonomics... I much prefer the round knobs in the PV9. I do wish CJ had kept the knobs and used some kind of a sensor to drive the relays. Just a minor point, but knobs work -and look- much better.

(*) Yeah, sometimes I have to get off the Hi Falutin' from Classical Neo-Poly-Phonic Phillip Glass and play music I love to rock with.

[Big Dog RJ]

Congrats on the ET3se upgrade, that should be some fine tunes indeed!

Forgot to mention, yes the Teflons will take quite a while
to fully settle in. It's not necessary to run the preamp non-stop and waste tube life...
Allow first a gradual process of burn-in and each time you listen to tunes, you'll find improvements along the process then all of a sudden, it just takes off! It shifts gears into another dimension and you'll realise it straight away but it won't happen quickly though. So have patience!

BTW, did they do just the Teflon caps or did they also include Vishay resistors as part of the upgrade? If they've included Vishays then get ready for another long haul flight... if not then all good.

Cheers, RJ

[tonye]

I believe it was both Teflon caps and VIshays. Didn't open the case when I got it. It's the "C1" upgrade... I got time... in the meantime I can also rotate the PV9 ( putting in the new Svetlanas in it. so that will need some break in ) and the DIY FW B1 Korg.

Normally I always let the front end warm up for an hour and the amps for half an hour.

It's been a good two years, BTW, when I decided to upgrade the amps and the preamp and the turntable... The "plain" ET3 was already very good, so I figure the slight "glare" I was hearing yesterday is just part of the burn in.

[SolderSlinger]

C1 is TEFLON capacitors only.

"SE" or "+" upgrade include TEFLON capacitors and Vishay resistors.

https://conradjohnson.com/project/c1-ca ... -upgrades/

Products that have a "SE" upgrade path are denoted with "(as part of SE Upgrade)"

[Big Dog RJ]

Yes that's correct. C1 is Teflon only, no Vishays.
Vishays cost a fair bit, and the more Vishays in there, when all added up Vishays + Teflons + other components equals a pretty penny.

For example; Apart from the Class A mods done on my monoblocks, I remember CJ HQ asking me if I'm ready for the Full SE upgrade... the reason asked was because once this specific upgrade was done, when selling the amps that separate cost of SE upgrades cannot be re-invested, its gone! I was very ready, simply because I'm not selling the amps. So they were a happy bunch and sent across parts.

Re. To Tonye's preamp

In one way having done just the C1 upgrade is actually more sensible and the preamp should hold good value. Either version done still sounds fantastic! Just enjoy it to the fullest and keep it for as long as possible. I think it's time to enjoy those fine tunes!

Cheers, RJ

[AnotherJohnson]

For example; Apart from the Class A mods done on my monoblocks, I remember CJ HQ asking me if I'm ready for the Full SE upgrade... the reason asked was because once this specific upgrade was done, when selling the amps that separate cost of SE upgrades cannot be re-invested, its gone! I was very ready, simply because I'm not selling the amps. So they were a happy bunch and sent across parts.

I really think you have to look at it the way that you have even if you’re just doing the C1 mod.

You never get your money back out at the time of sale. You have to get the value of the modifications out by your listening enjoyment. If you have to have an SE version, better to buy it already done and let the other guy take the hit. Now if you’re buying new, with intent to hold for the long haul, the cheapest way to get SE mods is to buy the factory SE model. I’ve done that twice and been happy with the outcome.

[Big Dog RJ]

Yes! Very true AJ mate. Or should I say "AB..." (Another Burmester!)

Listening enjoyment is of highest importance and of course enjoying the music is top priority, without a doubt!
Woof! RJ

[MattHooper]

Congrats on the preamp upgrade!

Oh, one thing about the ergonomics... I much prefer the round knobs in the PV9. I do wish CJ had kept the knobs and used some kind of a sensor to drive the relays. Just a minor point, but knobs work -and look- much better.

I agree.

The one ergonomic disappointment with my Premier 16LS2 is the buttons for volume rather than a knob. Knobs are simply more ergonomic, make more sense, and feel better. Along those lines I actually had a custom IR remote control made that uses a knob. It's a nice slab of high quality wenge-wood, with a big volume knob which feels fantastic to use from the listening seat. The knob of course controls volume, but also pressing the knob mutes the sound, or I can change inputs using the knob too.

[admin]

Congrats on the preamp upgrade!

I agree.

The one ergonomic disappointment with my Premier 16LS2 is the buttons for volume rather than a knob. Knobs are simply more ergonomic, make more sense, and feel better. Along those lines I actually had a custom IR remote control made that uses a knob. It's a nice slab of high quality wenge-wood, with a big volume knob which feels fantastic to use from the listening seat. The knob of course controls volume, but also pressing the knob mutes the sound, or I can change inputs using the knob too.

That remote control sounds interesting. Can you tell us a little more about how it was made and maybe some pictures. I really like DIY and custom stuff. You can maybe post about in the DIY section of the forum? I'm sure others would be interested as well.

[Joe Appierto]

The one ergonomic disappointment with my Premier 16LS2 is the buttons for volume rather than a knob.

I guess knobs are one desire that doesn't affect sound as another and are harmless in that sense when controlling a ladder of Vishay resistors. As to whether they're more ergonomic than buttons I don't think so. I've owned three pieces of CJ equipment that used buttons instead of knobs including the 16LS2 and not once did I miss knobs. The volume gradations are .67dB whether you use a knob or a button and quite honestly unless you are well-practiced with knobs maybe less so.

Just my 2¢.

[MattHooper]

Congrats on the preamp upgrade!

I agree.

The one ergonomic disappointment with my Premier 16LS2 is the buttons for volume rather than a knob. Knobs are simply more ergonomic, make more sense, and feel better. Along those lines I actually had a custom IR remote control made that uses a knob. It's a nice slab of high quality wenge-wood, with a big volume knob which feels fantastic to use from the listening seat. The knob of course controls volume, but also pressing the knob mutes the sound, or I can change inputs using the knob too.

That remote control sounds interesting. Can you tell us a little more about how it was made and maybe some pictures. I really like DIY and custom stuff. You can maybe post about in the DIY section of the forum? I'm sure others would be interested as well.

Sure.

Since I mentioned it in this thread....

I'd bemoaned to a reviewer friend how I was never fond of the usually crappy feeling remote controls that came with equipment and what I really wanted was the combination of satisfying tactile feel and convenience: a combination would be a nice big volume knob that I could operate from my listening sofa. An example would be the Devialet pro remote that always looked so nice to me:



Or even more droolworthy, the Steinway remote:



I actually inquired to Steinway about using their remote, but it was proprietary to their gear.

There were virtually no other alternatives. There were plenty of newer volume knobs made to work with computer software. But what I needed was a volume knob capable of learning the IR commands of my analog equipment - my CJ tube preamp, my Benchmark LA4 preamp. No such product!

Last year my reviewer friend was at the Polish audio show and happened upon a room, Adams Custom Audio, full of custom gear - speakers, tube amps. There was a unique looking remote with a volume knob. My friend snapped a photo, along with the business card, and sent it to me. It was JUST what I was looking for. I contacted the company (though I'm in Canada) and they said the remotes were for their integrated tube amps, but they could configure one/custom build to work with my gear. And, that's what we did. Through many emails we narrowed down the commands I wanted and they were fabulous at going to all lengths to get what I wanted.

In the end what I have is a custom remote, they call the OmniArc. I chose a wenge-wood finish and black volume knob. The wood base is a beautiful tear drop design that is perfect in ergonomics - supports my wrist/hand to operate the dial, like a custom-made luxurious mouse:





A note on the commands:

I asked quite a lot of this modest looking remote!

At the least I wanted it to operate my CJ and Benchmark preamps. In fact I run my CJ through my Benchmark, so I can switch between preamps via remote control. In the end we also programmed in volume and some picture control commands for operating my AV receiver (when using my home theater), Apple TV, my blu ray player.

The volume knob commands are configurable. It works like this:

There is an LED light ring around the base of the volume knob. It lights up when any command is sent - e.g. volume changes etc. We have assigned each different device it can operate different LED colors. So if the color is red, it is operating my CJ preamp. So the knob changes volume, a press down of the knob mutes the sound, and I can change inputs on the CJ by either holding down the knob and turning left or right, or by double pressing the knob.

If I want to operate another device, e.g. my Benchmark preamp, I will load those commands. I do this by pressing down the knob for 2 seconds, after which it enters "device selection mode." I can cycle through the LED colors pressing the button - Red for the CJ, Blue for the Benchmark, Green for the AV receiver etc. Then I just press and hold 2 seconds on the desired device, and the commands are loaded; it's now operating the new device.

It feels very luxurious to operate my system with this remote

Cheers.

[admin]

That isn't a remote, it's art.

[Joe Appierto]

That isn't a remote, it's art.

Exactly. It's something you'd expect to see in MOMA. Beautiful execution.

[MattHooper]

Glad you like it!

I like some luxury and a bit of bling, and I'll probably be having a custom knob made to replace the black one - likely bronze themed, which I think would look nice.

[Big Dog RJ]

Coool... beam me up Scotty! Looks like something from Star Trek. Definitely a work of Art.
Cheers, RJ