MET1 remote

[Mr_BT]

Hello,
If anyone here can share a photo of the insides of the remote for MET1 I'd be ecstatic!!! A capacitor broke off and I have no clue where to solder it back.

Thanks
Bart

[admin]

Same remote I believe (for my ET7s2).

[AnotherJohnson]

If the remote for the met1 is the R-10 or R-20, the circuit will be the same as admins.

If you enlarge the picture, it looks as though there has been a failure on the board that matches up with the location of admin’s cap.

[Mr_BT]

Thank you admin and thank you AnotherJohnson.

[AnotherJohnson]

I guess that’s actually a ceramic resonator.

What can Roberto share?

[admin]

I guess that’s actually a ceramic resonator.

What can Roberto share?

It is: https://datasheetspdf.com/datasheet/CSB455E.html

[AnotherJohnson]

That board looks to me like it will be hard to sink the heat away.

If it’s an RC-10, those are sometimes available on eBay or Audiogon for less than $50. Maybe CJ has them for short money too.

The RC-20 is much more elegant than the RC-10. It used to be $300 from CJ, but I think it’s more like $400 today.

[admin]

If the only issue is that the resonator popped off, that's pretty simple repair that I would try before going all out and buying a new remote. Soldering that back on should not take more than 5 minutes. But that's just me.

[AnotherJohnson]

It’s worth the risk to try.

Five minutes of heat and that board will be toast.

[admin]

It’s worth the risk to try.

Five minutes of heat and that board will be toast.

AJ makes a good point. You have to know how to use a soldering iron. But when it comes to soldering back components, this is about easy as it gets as there is good access, not a bunch of other components around to get in the way or damage, etc. I would not even add any extra solder at first, maybe you can just reattach with what already there. Make sure you use a fine tip on the soldering iron for this particular job.

[AnotherJohnson]

I agree on the low power small tip.

It’s just a remote, so not in the audio device.

My problem (my concern) is that I would want to sink the heat between the loose piece and the board, and I don’t see a way to do that. Even from the underside of that type of board.

It is worth the risk because the remote is useless now, so you can’t make it worse.

When soldering on this sort of stuff, my normal approach would be to melt the existing solder and suck it out. Then I would want to insert the legs into the existing holes, sink heat away from the board, and apply new solder.

The alternative proposed by admin is more risky but, as noted, there is nothing to lose by trying it, and it could work just fine.

[admin]

AJ could be right. I really can't tell from the picture whether the legs of the resonator broke off and they are still in the board, or they just came out. Depending on the situation of the contact points they may need to be reinserted. You can use a solder wick to clear out the old solder if needed.

But right now you have a remote that doesn't work,... so there really is no downside in attempting to repair. Worst case scenario you are back with a non-working remote.

[roberto]

AC4039D0-BF47-4D86-B11A-F893B4E9F52C.jpeg (2.2 MiB) Viewed 755 times

You can see in your pic the exact points. Because the PC is ripped off, you have to peel the pc traces for a good solder joint

[AnotherJohnson]

Roberto, can this take a repair? Looks like a throwaway to me.

[roberto]

Well, I think that with a low temperature iron, with a very thin soldering tip and thin solder, he can scrap a little bit the foil of the PC Board and do the soldering. Also with the aid of a double side adhesive tape, he can secure the capacitor to the PC board and extend the leads with the right length with a tiny thin cable, to reach the necessary place to do a good soldering.

[Mr_BT]

All done,
Just waiting for the glue to set the cap(or whatever it is) permanently.
All working fine, it took some time because I had to order a magnifying glass Yes. I'm not that young anymore!

thanks to All

[admin]

Glad it is working. So looks like you didn't attach it to the original contact points. Any reason for that? Also, as a safety precaution, you may want to wrap the leads of the resonator with a bit of electric tape. Not sure how much clearance there is between the board the an metal cover so you don't want any of the leads to come in contact with a metal plate.

Again, nice job on the fix.

[roberto]

Good job, I have another suggestion: Try to use small solder joints points. Too big joints could lead to have short circuits. Admin is worried about this possible short. Because the remote is always moving around, it is safer to use heat shrink to cover the solder joints.

https://www.amazon.com/560PCS-Heat-Shri ... r=8-5&th=1

[roberto]

https://www.amazon.com/vdp/049ad7de9beb ... _vse_ibvc1

[admin]

I like heat shrink and use it often with projects. Buying a heat gun makes the shrinking a lot easier but a hair dryer set on the highest heat level will also do the trick.

This is the one I bought when I got tired asking my wife repeatedly for her hair dryer: https://www.harborfreight.com/power-too ... 56434.html

It's only $13 and comes with an assortment of blower attachments that make working in tight spots or sensitive areas easier.