ET7-S2 errors with remote commands

[bobbyleelamp]

Hello CJO group. I have a very irritating problem with a new ET7-S2 and would really like to understand where the fault lies. Since I put the pre-amp in my system (Oppo-105, Sony HAP-Z1ES, CJ Premiere 350, SoundLab M1-PX's) 6 months ago there have been on-going errors with controlling the unit using the supplied remote control. When I raise or lower the volume (using the remote), the pre-amp does not respond. Other times I click the volume button and the pre-amp responds correctly but on the sometimes second, third or fourth click the unit goes into mute mode. For example the display might show: 26-27-28-0; when it hits 0 it is in mute, there is no sound. Another variation while changing the volume, the pre-amp will switch to a different source or engage the epl1 loop. If I change sources it always goes to the correct source though sometimes it requires multiple clicks. I am only 15 feet from the pre-amp, clear line of sight. Changed batteries in remote. SEEMS to work better when I move closer.

I spoke to Jeff at CJ and he said it may be interference from other IR sources. Does these mean that the signal (specific and exact sequence of light pulses) are altered during transit from the remote (signal emmitted correctly) to the pre-amp (where the corrupted signal is received)? This would seem to imply the environment is corrupting the remote signal. I had a Conrad Johnson MET-1 pre-amp right before the ET7-S2 in the same room and the remote and the unit were flawless in remote command/pre-amp response. The MET-1 used the same remote as the ET7-S2. GUESSING same guts, different coding. Jeff said the pre-amps are very different; the ET7 is more sensitive to other electronics in close proximity (so I moved them >2 feet away) and the schizophrenic behavior persists. He said I can sent the units in and they will assess them and if neccessary modify the ET7.

Has anyone else ever had similar problems with this pre-amp? If anyone might have insight into the operations of an IR interface and subsequent schizophrenic behavior I would appreciate your thoughts. Personally, I'm thinking the remote has a major glich. Sends signal, does not send signal. Sends codes to change volume then screws up midstream and sends signal to switch source or mute. Thanks, Bob.

[admin]

Hi bobbyleelamp (Bob),

First, let me welcome you to CJO, great to have you with us.

I just acquired an ET7s2 this past month so I have a little experience under my belt. I have found the remote to be a little finicky myself. My situation is a little complicated as I don't have direct line of site from the listening position to the ET7s2 due to my speaker being in the way. I can control the unit by bouncing the IR signal off the wall or ceiling. With that said, I have noticed that on occasion the input will change despite only activating the volume key. I have not had this happen when I actually press the remote with direct line of site.

As for your comment on "interference", that would mean there is another IR source in the room. I presume you are not actively using another remote control at the same time. Any chance you have another IR source, like a security webcam with IR illumination (often used for night time video recording)?

The fact that you note it happening less when you are close may indicate that the IR signal illumination strength is not adequate (or interference).

I have an IR repeater in my system which is not currently connected to the ET7s2 but I was planning on experimenting to get a more reliable signal to the unit. But again, the source switch error by volume key press has been so infrequent that I have not done it yet.

I would also make sure that the IR receiver plastic cover on the ET7s2 is clean and smudge free.

If you think the remote is sometimes not sending signal, the easiest/cheapest way to check that is to point the remote at your cellphone camera and most phones will pick up the IR and display it in the visible spectrum on the display (just use your camera app). In other words, you will see the IR transmitter light up on screen (but obviously not with your eyes directly).

I have been planning to do a bigger writeup on my thoughts of the ET7s2 which have been overwhelmingly excellent but life has been real busy. I will get to it, I promise!

[AnotherJohnson]

There are other threads where I’ve mentioned that the RC-20 to preamp interface is flakey.

I never complained about it because I’ve noticed it from the earliest use, and through several different preamps and RC-20s. That could suggest the problem was in my environment, but I honestly never thought of it as a problem.

Roberto suggested it was just my own fumble fingers.

I thought it was/is just another quaint CJ quirk, like the clackity clack.

It may be interference. I would not argue with Jeff. He has always given me good advice.

I think it could also be related to the conductance of your hand, and to static electricity.

It never impeded my enjoyment of the CJ sound or the particular listening session. The worst thing I had to deal with was to take it back off it’s self imposed theater loop status, or it’s decision that I meant balance instead of volume.

In my fairly long experience with the RC-20, I think that if you want it function as smoothly as an ARC remote, that may not happen.

On my Levinson remote, the buttons can randomly stick.

On my Marantz remotes, you may find the wrong device responding.

On my McIntosh remote, you had to have a psychic connection to the device to sort through its “plastic eBay universal remote” nature.

The ARC remotes have been drama free, except for the same issue as the Marantz if you have more than one ARC preamp in your system.

The only devices I have that are remote issue free are the turntables … and their issue is that there is no remote.

[AnotherJohnson]

It was in the CJ vs McIntosh thread started (I think) by audiobill. Here’s what I shared there.

*********
Audiobill is definitely right about the annoying remote control.

You can’t even turn the unit on or off from your seat. And the clackity clack isn’t even always reliable … if you adjust volume, sometimes the presence of your finger near the balance buttons causes them to adjust too. And then, depending on the levels of static electricity present, it is very possible for the theater loop to activate itself when another command is given. And don’t tell me this doesn’t happen except for fumble fingers. I know better.

Nevertheless, it all works after a fashion. And none of these issues are in play during normal listening.

Another issue in favor of McIntosh (and ARC) is that you can adjust volumes for each source and equalize them. So a setting of 25 means more or less the same thing for phono, aux, cd,etc.

The McIntosh gear is well thought out, and feature laden. It is a very safe choice.

Incidentally, Roberto and I play guitar too. Maybe there are others. There’s a thread on that subject.
*********

Here is the latest remote from ARC.

It is grand … but I prefer the hand feel of the older versions in both metal (like the RC-20 hand feel), and plastic (unique hand feel in my experience).

But man, this new ARC is bullet proof, even if it is a bit heavy and blocky. I leave it on the arm of my chair, and rarely pick it up. I just touch the appropriate button, and a flawless genie does the rest without the clickity clacks.

https://audioresearch.com/new-arc-remote/

Regarding the ARC and McIntosh source volume matching, this is not a feature of every one of their products … but it is present on some. I liked it on my SP-20 preamp. But otherwise, I’ve not bothered with it. I do wish I’d kept that SP-20. It appears to be the last ARC preamp with a resident phono section. It would be fun to have as a collector’s piece.

[AnotherJohnson]

Here’s a link to audiobill’s comparison thread.

https://www.conradjohnsonowners.com/vie ... php?t=2243

[admin]

The RC-20 definitely feels of high quality and I would argue feels better in my hand than any plastic remote. However, I think remote control is an afterthought in CJ design. Let's face it, it doesn't even have a power on/off button.

One option that we haven't brought up is simply using a programable universal remote. I use one for my home theater setup and works rather well. So that would be a potential alternative with any trouble arising from the remote itself.

[AnotherJohnson]

The RC-20 definitely feels of high quality and I would argue feels better in my hand than any plastic remote. However, I think remote control is an afterthought in CJ design. Let's face it, it doesn't even have a power on/off button.

One option that we haven't brought up is simply using a programable universal remote. I use one for my home theater setup and works rather well. So that would be a potential alternative with any trouble arising from the remote itself.

I’ve seen some on eBay that are advertised as Conrad Johnson compatible.

I agree the remote is an afterthought. It’s driven by market necessity. I bought my PV5 35+ years ago when it was less than a year old for 50% of msrp. The original owner liked the sound, but was unhappy that there was no remote.


Regarding the metal vs plastic, obviously I felt like the metal was intrinsically better up until recently. In direct comparison, I’ve found that I actually like the warmer feel, the contour, and the lower weight of the plastic version … but this is not a general preference. It only relates to the three ARC models, of which I have all three in hand.

[Big Dog RJ]

I had very similar issues when I owned both versions of the ACT2 preamp. The remote went apers... causing the ACT2 to do silly stuff including cart wheels! In the middle of a session, it would then suddenly paralyse one channel and all LEDs would light up. In order for it to reset, I had to shut off the entire system... that was very annoying.

I then sent the unit to our Aus CJ importer, whom I've known since 2004 and they've been dealing with CJ gear for decades. They did modify the ACT2, whereby they shortened the mains power cord inside the unit and placed an additional copper plate for better grounding. This did sort out a lot of issues but it still kept tripping.

I then finally sent it to the same chap who did those specified mods on my CJ monoblocks, and it actually turned out to be two erratic 6N30P tubes! Of course the tubes were changed and those silly acrobatics never happened thereafter but then I sold off both versions.

I've checked with the new owner and he didn't come across any issues, so far so good, an excellent match with his SS Lamm monoblocks driving his Thiel CS7.2's.

On the my latest modded CT5 preamp, the rc20 works fine, no issues there at all. Although, sometimes I carry on static walking across the carpet to change LP's, and this would trigger a static charge down the chain putting the CT5 into sudden mute. But that's not remote related...

Let us know how you manage to sort it out. It is very annoying.
Best, RJ

[admin]

Regarding the metal vs plastic, obviously I felt like the metal was intrinsically better up until recently. In direct comparison, I’ve found that I actually like the warmer feel, the contour, and the lower weight of the plastic version … but this is not a general preference. It only relates to the three ARC models, of which I have all three in hand.

Metal vs plastic, preference is going to be completely subjective so no right or wrong answer. I have two metal remotes in my system (ET7s2 and my Holo Audio DAC). And they feel hefty and I'm sure are more expensive to produce than plastic equivalents. But they are also some of my most featureless remotes. I have an entire table dedicated to remotes, I think I probably have around 10 or so due to the home theater equipment. The best response and feel is probably my Oppo Digital Blu-ray player remote. The buttons feel soft but sturdy, the IR transmitter is exceptionally good, and the buttons light up with movement which makes doing things in the dark a lot easier. The funniest looking ones are to my laserdisc players which have these large jog tiles sticking out that you can actively fast forward or rewind. Fun stuff.

[bobbyleelamp]

Thank you everyone for responding and giving your input. Admin I appreciate the welcome; additionally, you get the $ 100,000.00 prize for what appears to be the correct solution. The distance component made me think it might be signal strength, so before I posted my request I changed the batteries in the remote and it had no effect.

I bought a programmable remote to test and IR repeater to try. Before I started to mess w these things I read the responses again and reread the suggestion from admin: "..receiver cover ....is clean and smudge free". I wiped it w a soft cloth and as I was wiping there was a very light film on the cover.The remote operations have been 100% accurate and flawless since. Every command is received, every command is 100% accurate. SO NICE.

I never would have thought to wipe the cover. The display (same window) always looked uniform and not distorted, so I never considered crap on the window. The problem started the first day with the preamp so it came new with some film/contaminant on the window.

I let this go for many months because I just had a feeling there was nothing wrong with this 13K amp, so returning it to CJ would have been a waste of time. Seems it was not "interference" from another IR source.

At any rate, thank you SO MUCH, everyone and especially admin. I never would have identified junk on the window.

Bob

[admin]

Wonderful. Glad to hear it was an easy fix!

[roberto]

Hola Chicos,

I never had an issue with the remote control in my ET-7 V1, and I had this preamp for almost 5 years with me. I just sold it, and I am now in a regret mode. I will get soon the ET-7 V2, brand fresh new. Jeff told me that it is in the breaking time, so it looks like that just out of the box, the unit will start to sing giving pure love!

As we, Ticos (Costa Rican people) say: Pura vida!
Happy listening!

[admin]

Just thought I give a little update on remote related ET7s2 capabilities. My ET7s2 sits behind my speaker so I don't have direct line of site. I put one of the leads on my IR signal repeater over the IR receiver on the ET7s2 and I am happy to report that it works very well. No errors or miss-codes. So this is a viable option for those that may be have remote issues with the ET7s2.

[roberto]

Just an update regarding the remote control for my brand new ET-7 S2. The new remotes had a late delivery. They are supposed to arrive at the Conrad Johnson facilities this coming Wednesday or Thursday. Perhaps if I’m lucky, it will be shipped to Miami on Friday.

Well, patience is what I need!!!

[admin]

Roberto, so close now. Hang in there. It will be worth it. It's also a nice remote so definitely worth waiting for.

[AnotherJohnson]

Too bad Jeff didn’t just tell you to keep the RC20 from your S1.

It will be over soon.

[roberto]

From Jeff:
Hello Roberto,

The remotes were shipped last week from my vendor , with expected delivery to our factory tomorrow. We will be able to ship your ET7S2 this week.

I thought Wednesday or Thursday, but it is tomorrow!!!

Great news for me!!!

[AnotherJohnson]

[roberto]

Hola Chicos...I am still in the Limbo. No confirmation of shipping my ET7S2 yet. Still waiting.

Happy listening!

[AnotherJohnson]

I know it is exasperating to wait …

But, as admin says, good things come to those who wait.

We’re waiting for the 2.5 year old grandson to finish his dinner so we can go out for ice cream.