Meet Vivi, longtime CJ owner. Sorta. in NYC.

[admin]

If you need to try another source, as I mentioned an 3.5mm jack to RCA connector (about $5 from walmart) and you can use your phone as the playing device. Switching outputs from the PV1 to the amp would only tell you if the amplifier or the speaker was the problem.

$6000 seems like a lot,... in the sense that you could probably buy these units in working condition for a fraction of that cost on the used market. But then again, it's hard to put a price on sentimental value.

If you want to play around with these components to narrow down the problem to a specific device at least, you can do that yourself with essentially no cost. The repair may cost a bit however.

[vivi]

okay I"m going online today to find a 3.5mm jack to RCA connector - thanks for a great idea. I may have found a high end audio repair guy (who loves tubes) downtown and charges $45 a half hour for diagnostics and estimates. I'll check him out, but the idea of a cab ride vs shipping a couple monster boxes is VERY appealing. He's here: https://www.blackiepagano.com...he's got a lot of press clippings and....he's in the neighborhood I grew up in..
I"ll try the switch this weekend on the TT too...
I'll keep you posted. thanks again everyone.
v

[AnotherJohnson]

He should be able to troubleshoot... but his specialty is guitar amps, not high end audio amps.

I think he’s a great place to start, although unless he is also a TT aficionado, he won’t be much use for the LP12.

[admin]

Agree with AnotherJohnson. It would be of benefit if we could narrow down the issue to either the TT or the PV1, that way you only have to service one component.

[AnotherJohnson]

The major differences between guitar amps and audio amps are:

1. All guitar amps have preamp and amp sections, and most have tone controls and distortion controls like reverb or chorus. The goal of a guitar amp is to give the player a creative “signature” sound.

2. Audio amps don’t have controls for tone or distortion. They may have a preamp section, but most are not integrated. Your PV1 is a stand alone preamp. The goal of a high end audio amp is to perfectly amplify the input with high fidelity so that the output wave form is exactly the same shape as the input signal ... just bigger.

The two jobs are different, but he will know that. I’m sure he can determine if there are issues and give good advice.

[AnotherJohnson]

Just out of curiosity... I don’t think Michael’s amps were specifically identified, except that there is a pair of them.

Is there any chance that they are either Marantz 8s or 9s, or McIntosh 75s? Or were they from CJ or ARC?

He obviously had very nice gear ... there weren’t a lot of monoblock choices out there when he was acquiring early LP12s or PV1s.

If they happen to be original Marantz or McIntosh tube amps( both of which would have already been already considered old at the time the PV1 was introduced), they’re worth quite a bit. A pair of late model Marantz or McIntosh are both highly sought after worldwide.

[vivi]

Hi, all, thanks for the info/advice....and a bouquet to ADMIN, who suggested I get a 3.5MM to RCA adaptor. I plugged in my MP3, connected it to the CJ....and OMG, I heard Tubthumper by Chumbawamba in BOTH SPEAKERS!!!!

While I was dancing around the room doing my "Rocky" dance of triumph, I heard a bunch of static on the CJ and lowered the volume....and the music continued in both speakers.

And then the Right Speaker went dead. again. No big burst of static. It just....stopped.

I just tried it again and it ain't coming back. Also a lot of static when I turn the volume knob on the CJ.

So what does that tell me?

I think there may or may not be an issue with the Linn and I haven't switched the outputs yet...but there's definitely something going on with the way the sound goes through the CJ to the Right Speaker...

Could it just be a blown fuse? Or a blown tube?

What would happen if I switched the outputs on the CJ to the Power Amp so left was going to the right speaker and right was going to the left speaker? Would if screw up/hurt anything? Would I learn anything?

Thanks for advice/input/suggestions/support. I somehow feel I got closer to understanding WTF is going on, so I at least can tell whoever looks at the CJ what is going on so far. I have plans to call the downtown audio guy today or later this week.

I am not kicking myself for having music in both speakers and then losing it, because chances are it would have blown/stopped anyway at some point.

[vivi]

Oh, on the subject of amps, I have his Peter Sequerra speakers, which are awesome, and a pair of Bose speakers I got as a replacement. Why a replacement? Michael used to review stereo for The Absolute Sound (we had dinner with Harry Pearson many times)...he had a pair of Cadawas speakers for the bass and the Sequerra for the treble, but the Cadawas speakers got stolen. When Michael was in the hospital dying some scumbag got into the house and stole a bunch of stuff. It's a long awful story.

[AnotherJohnson]

It could be as simple as a thorough cleaning of the pots, switches, and rca jacks. Really.

At least you know it’s not isolated to the TT.

You said earlier that both amps work.

Now that you know that more than one source doesn’t work, it sounds like the place to start is the PV 1,

The stuff I mentioned is true low hanging fruit. The amp guy ought to get out his can of de-oxit and see if he can get a magical result.

[vivi]

Yep!. I hope it's an easy fix; just left a voicemail with the downtown audio guy. I gotta tell you, when I heard that right speaker it was such an 'up."
Please educate me....what are 'pots?"
I must say, this is a PITA project but I"m learning stuff. It's nice that I'm still learning stuff from Michael. I actually took a look at the screws holding the CJ cover...and I'm really resisting the urge to take a peek. I kinda hope I'll see a big red arrow that says "PROBLEM IS HERE."

[AnotherJohnson]

Oh, on the subject of amps, I have his Peter Sequerra speakers, which are awesome, and a pair of Bose speakers I got as a replacement. Why a replacement? Michael used to review stereo for The Absolute Sound (we had dinner with Harry Pearson many times)...he had a pair of Cadawas speakers for the bass and the Sequerra for the treble, but the Cadawas speakers got stolen. When Michael was in the hospital dying some scumbag got into the house and stole a bunch of stuff. It's a long awful story.

This suggests that you should get in touch with Robert Harley, current editor of TAS.

Although you’re doing great working this puzzle on your own, I can’t help but think that Michael’s connection to TAS would facilitate the search for a restoration solution at more modest cost.

[AnotherJohnson]

Pots is short for potentiometers.

The circular dials that control volume and balance are potentiometers. Switches may also be dial like, but they vary discretely rather than continuously.

[AnotherJohnson]

Pots have a sweeper/wiper that changes the resistance that the circuit sees. Corrosion leads to both noise and dead spots.

Honestly, I’ve seen simple cleaning bring amps back to life ... especially guitar amps that have far more pots and switches, and tended in the old days to be used in smoke filled beer swilled rooms.

[vivi]

Is this De-oxit thing something I can try if I don't open anything up? It would be so cool if I could spray it on the outputs and solve the problem....I can run to Home Depot today.

[AnotherJohnson]

If he knew HP, he may also have known Harry Weisfeld who was another of HP’s friends. Harry is the originator of VPI turntables. If he knew Michael, he might be willing to help. The Weisfelds are very nice people.

[AnotherJohnson]

Is this De-oxit thing something I can try if I don't open anything up? It would be so cool if I could spray it on the outputs and solve the problem....I can run to Home Depot today.

The unit needs a thorough cleaning. It is more effective to do some disassembly.

De-Oxit, or other electric contact cleaners are available on line. I’ve never seen it stocked except at electronic parts supply houses.

[vivi]

Thanks again. I will reach out to TAS one more time, for the Linn...

[admin]

Agree with Anotherjohnson. Cleaning the pots may solve the problem. You may want to try the cheaper, turn the volume knob back and forth 50 times. Sometimes that can knock some of the oxidation off. The other thing I am thinking is that there may be a cold solder or bad connection among the internal components. This will often cause the unit to function properly initially, but as it heats up, mental slightly expands and the connection may be then broken. This time variation of sound failure may also be due to individual component failure. Electrical properties of components change with temperature and if you have a component that is on the verge of failure at room temperature, it can be knocked over the line when it gets warm.

You also asked about is it ok to change the right/left channel inputs and outputs. Perfectly fine and safe (as long as all the equipment is off).

It's also safe to take a look inside. You don't have to meddle with anything but as long as all your equipment is off (and preferable disconnected) there is nothing dangerous or damaging to take off the cover and have a peak inside. Just looking will sometimes tell you what is wrong by seeing burn marks or those "bulging caps" we talked about earlier. Even you can't/don't want to fix it yourself, it could give you a lead on what could be wrong.

[AnotherJohnson]

Don’t poke around. Just look. Those caps hold their charge. A trained technician discharges them before poking.

If you must poke, use a chop stick. Keep the other hand behind your back.

FWIW, it could be a cold solder joint ... but that’s generally out of the novice skill set to find or repair. On the bright side, the guitar amp guy will look for that and should be competent to fix it if he finds it.

[vivi]

Hi all, another update. Wednesday I take the CJ to Blackie (love the name) to see what he can do. further testing indicates that I get sound initially from the right speaker (the left always works) for a few seconds and then it just stops. I switch plugs on components and it's the same. It's the CJ.
I've found a place in Mt. Kisco that repairs Linn's including LP12's and I sent them a note. I"m hopeful.
I"ve learned so much here, thanks everyone.
Also to the point about individual components, I've got an MP3 player that I connect (thx to the brilliant idea of a 3.5 MM to RCA cable thingy) to each of the component outputs and the result is the same for each component output. A brief burst of music from the right speaker and then silence.
Right now the only components I can reliably test with are the turntable and the MP3. MY PITA Nikko tuner and the Sherwood receiver both need an antenna and the one I have ain't worth a damn. I can kinda get a radio signal on the Sherwood but I need a better antenna.
So the next question, assuming this is successful, is what to get for the full kit - I have a lot of CD's and I listen to the radio and I have an MP3 player. My apartment is too klugey for bluetooth.

Anyway, I'll keep you posted...thanks again.