I've known of Conrad Johnson's equipment for many decades but could never afford to buy their equipment new. I recently acquired this used piece at an audio shop near me that I visit often.a very high-end audio shop for $900.00 how I acquired this preamp is this shop acquires equipment for trade in from time to time which I'm always keeping my eye on. Since I can't afford to buy new.
A little about me
I've been into audio since I was a young teenager and built my first set of speakers when I was about 16 years old. I guess I would be considered an audiophile. I enjoy listening to very high end systems.but I am hobbyist also is diy'er also. this past weekend I got a chance to listen to Wilson audio's big system I'll try to attach some of the pictures of that system and my own
Nick
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Hi nick,
Welcome to CJO. It's great to have you with us. Wow, those first pictures look like a system that would be well into the 6 figures. All the tubes in the bottom left hand corner of the first picture.... good lord.
I also own the PV-12L. It's a really nice preamp and you got it for a good price. Very nice. What kind of amp and speakers are you using in your system?
Again, welcome to the site.
-admin Home Theater in Member Gallery Main stereo: ART Amplifier and ET7s2. 2nd stereo: PV-14L and MV-55. Previously Owned: PF2 preamp, Evolution 2000 Amp, PV-12AL preamp, D/A-2b Vacuum-Tube Digital Processor.
Well my system is mixed match of different brands.
It has great system synergy but in the future there are places I want to improve. When it comes to audio I'm not broke but I'm not rich. but I guess you could say I have high quality champagne taste but only a premium beer pocket.
As follows
Preamp conrad-johnson pv12l
Poweramp adcom gfa-555 Mark II
Interconnects transparent audio
Speaker cables Raven audio nice cables reasonably priced
Speakers my own.. dimensions 49"H x 13"D x 7.5"W
Each woofer has its own enclosure .22cf each and the Tweeter has its own chamber. With a bottom empty chamber very well dampened where I placed the crossover Network. second-order filter on the woofers. third order filter with a notch on the upper frequencies for tweeters I hate loud bright tweeters the trick is to make the speaker sound seamless between the woofer and tweeter. The woofers are NOS acoustic research 5 in 1/4 inch from their classic model from the 90s i e classic 26 classic 28 classic 30 among a few with models that they where was used in. And are no longer available. The tweeters are Dayton audio 1 1/8" silk dome tweeters. https://www.parts-express.com/acoustic- ... --299-2052
Playback device
Home-built media center
Playback capabilities Blu-ray DVD CD screaming for qobuz 24bit 192khz and Comcast cable.
Hardware quad core,16 gig of RAM, GTX 970sc for video, HT Omega claro 2 external sound card/dac
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Really cool. I like the DIY stuff. Enjoy the system!
-admin Home Theater in Member Gallery Main stereo: ART Amplifier and ET7s2. 2nd stereo: PV-14L and MV-55. Previously Owned: PF2 preamp, Evolution 2000 Amp, PV-12AL preamp, D/A-2b Vacuum-Tube Digital Processor.
Oh and to respond to your comment on the first couple pictures. Here's a link to Wilson audio site
on their site they don't show the speakers with the two woofer subwoofers towers.
But I believe the whole system with the subwoofers runs about $850,000
I figure the system I listen to with all the amplifiers and gear would have probably come out to about a million dollars
Yes, the Wilson Chronosonic system goes for around 650 grand a pair and the Thor hammer subwoofers go for 100 grand each. I listened to this exact system in Spore during my travels in early Feb, and the amps used to drive the Chronosonic were Dan D'Augostino momentums. It was an overall very Dynamic, effortless drive of power and control. However, during my second visit in Aug, I also experienced the new ARC M160's driving YG Acoustics top line, and that sounded marvellous!
Based on dynamic driver types and cones in top tier designs, this is just about as fine as as it gets! Can't go any further than that. At the end of the day, I'm a purist and I will always have a passion towards full range stats or ribbon panels. Having auditioned the CLX's, MG30.7's and Alsyvox ribbons driven by the Relentless monoblocks, and CJ's ART300's, which is again what Dan 'D uses as his reference, that "type" of sound reproduction is my preference.
I cannot really understand after paying close to 700 grand for a fine pair of Wilson's, you have to pay just another 100 grand for the subs... Doesn't the Chrosonic deliver ample low frequency as it is? After listening to these, I did prefer them driven on their own, without subs. The overall bass balance seemed more cohesive and it wasn't too bass heavy, as most of these Dynamic types tend to swing that way... I guess DSP engines and other digital software can certainly help to fine tune frequency response, but I still can't justify why on earth you would require two huge subs to augment the bass when the main speakers cost a bloody fortune! I also believe it's to do with an ego / insecurity issues in having such lofty systems, without any purpose...
Very glad you've built your own speakers to spec that deliver a custom made sound that you prefer. I can bet on it that the overall performance of your system compared to the lofty million dollar Wilson, will be giving the Wilson's a damn good run for the money...
That kind of expenditure is totally unnecessary, afterall this a recorded music we're talking about, and the playback chain. This is not live music, and no matter what huge systems there are out there for whatever price range, they simply cannot equal or surpass a live performance, the physics are totally different!
I'm sure the PV12 and Adcom GFA 555 is a fine combination for those speakers that you've built. Wish I could have heard this system, I would have learned a lot more from such an experience.
Enjoy mate and we'll done on the speakers, they look fantastic! Cheers mate, RJ
Big Dog RJ wrote: ↑Thu Dec 05, 2019 2:45 pm
Yes, the Wilson Chronosonic system goes for around 650 grand a pair and the Thor hammer subwoofers go for 100 grand each. I listened to this exact system in Spore during my travels in early Feb, and the amps used to drive the Chronosonic were Dan D'Augostino momentums. It was an overall very Dynamic, effortless drive of power and control. However, during my second visit in Aug, I also experienced the new ARC M160's driving YG Acoustics top line, and that sounded marvellous!
Based on dynamic driver types and cones in top tier designs, this is just about as fine as as it gets! Can't go any further than that. At the end of the day, I'm a purist and I will always have a passion towards full range stats or ribbon panels. Having auditioned the CLX's, MG30.7's and Alsyvox ribbons driven by the Relentless monoblocks, and CJ's ART300's, which is again what Dan 'D uses as his reference, that "type" of sound reproduction is my preference.
I cannot really understand after paying close to 700 grand for a fine pair of Wilson's, you have to pay just another 100 grand for the subs... Doesn't the Chrosonic deliver ample low frequency as it is? After listening to these, I did prefer them driven on their own, without subs. The overall bass balance seemed more cohesive and it wasn't too bass heavy, as most of these Dynamic types tend to swing that way... I guess DSP engines and other digital software can certainly help to fine tune frequency response, but I still can't justify why on earth you would require two huge subs to augment the bass when the main speakers cost a bloody fortune! I also believe it's to do with an ego / insecurity issues in having such lofty systems, without any purpose...
Very glad you've built your own speakers to spec that deliver a custom made sound that you prefer. I can bet on it that the overall performance of your system compared to the lofty million dollar Wilson, will be giving the Wilson's a damn good run for the money...
That kind of expenditure is totally unnecessary, afterall this a recorded music we're talking about, and the playback chain. This is not live music, and no matter what huge systems there are out there for whatever price range, they simply cannot equal or surpass a live performance, the physics are totally different!
I'm sure the PV12 and Adcom GFA 555 is a fine combination for those speakers that you've built. Wish I could have heard this system, I would have learned a lot more from such an experience.
Enjoy mate and we'll done on the speakers, they look fantastic! Cheers mate, RJ
Funny I said the same thing when I listen to the Wilson
Chronosonic system but that's because its designed not to attract attention to themselves IE meaning the subs I I didn't see in their manual what frequency they recommend them to be tuned to but I figure they are designed to work below 40 or 60 hertz on down..
I appreciate your compliment on my system. Did I read correctly you would have liked to listen to my system? if so I'm flattered I'm always trying to get people to come over listen to my system that know what music is supposed to sound like to get different opinions or what I could have done different.
Yes, correct. I did state that I would have looked forward to hearing your system, plus further expanding the learning curve..
Unfortunately I'm based in Melbourne, so I guess chances are slim. Over here we have a members / audio site called Stereonet and they also host a hi-fi Show once a year. Sadly these shows are beginning to slightly diminish, not upto the standards of high-end quality shows unlike 10- 15 years ago...
There are plenty of people that attend, always wanting to learn and experience new gear, well laid out and properly set up gear but this show doesn't offer that. For example the high-end audio show in Munich is unparalleled! Nothing quite like it.
If the serious audio enthusiasts got a chance to listen to well laid out systems, properly set up, they would learn tonnes more about what high-end audio is, as well as how "recorded" music should sound like from reference quality recordings.
My time now on the audio front is spent on finding those pristine recordings and collecting many more high quality selections mostly on LP. I think my purchasing days will cease for now, as we just built our new house and moved few weeks ago. Once I've properly setup everything, I will post some pics under the CLX's tab.
Would have been certainly nice to have had an audition on your system and learn how you built those speakers from the ground up. Very happy to hear that you're enjoying your music and most importantly, enjoying the fine CJ gear!
Yeah I figured you were from down under and I figured you wouldn't be able to come over and listen to my system. I just thought it was cool to read that someone was interested in listening to my system. And speaking of speakers. I'm in the middle of ordering parts to build a set of bookshelf speakers for one of the salesmen at the audio shop where I bought the PV12L.. the shop only sells Wilson audio, vandersteen, B&W, Ravel, and a couple of McIntosh speakers new. And Random stuff that comes on trade in. And I'm sure if he could afford it on a family budget he would own one of those set of speakers. For a long while I've been trying to get those guys to listen to my speakers. I told this said salesman I figured out how to get you to listen to a pair of my custom built speakers.I'm going to build you a set to take home and keep. I even as a joke told the manager which is a long time audiophile when I bought the PV12L I needed him to come help me hook it up. His only response was yeah right sure you do. I said hey that would get you to come over and listen to my system.LOL I even went in there one afternoon and told him the balance knob on preamp wasn't working right. I told him when you turn the knob to the right the left speaker still plays and when I turn the knob to the left the right speaker still plays. He's like yeah right smartass you know how a tube preamplifier Works. Anyway here is the driver's I'll be using on my new speaker build
Some brands do not totally mute a channel when the balance knob is used. Why is this? They want to touch the less possible the audio signal. This is normal. The question is, why do you need to mute totally one channel? The balance knob is for adjust the center stage, because some recordings, specially with turntables LPs, might have unbalanced audio signal channels. On other brands, you are able to totally mute one channel or the other with this knob. It is just the way that the designer made the preamp.
Happy listening!
ML CLX BF-210 Stage X Motion 4. CJ 120SE amp ET7V2 pre, Holo May Kte Dac. Mac Pro. Power Cond. BPT Signature+ 3.5, Gaia II Feet. USB Lush^V3. Nordost SPM IC and Spk. Shun Mook, BCanto CD2 CD3. Linn LP-12/Unitrack tonearm/Denon DL103R MC.
Yup, can confirm that the pv12 balance selector does not mute a channel on full left/right setting. I would have to check the manual but if memory serves each selection increment attenuates the channel signal by 2.5 db.
-admin Home Theater in Member Gallery Main stereo: ART Amplifier and ET7s2. 2nd stereo: PV-14L and MV-55. Previously Owned: PF2 preamp, Evolution 2000 Amp, PV-12AL preamp, D/A-2b Vacuum-Tube Digital Processor.
I download the PV-+12L manual and where the section for the balance is, here is what C-J says: "...BALANCE: This control is an eleven position stepped attenuator, adjusting the channel balance in approximately .75 dB steps. The maximum attenuation is under 4 dB, so both channels will be present even in the extreme positions. In normal use the control will be centered.
Only 4dB to the left of the right is possible.
Happy listening!
ML CLX BF-210 Stage X Motion 4. CJ 120SE amp ET7V2 pre, Holo May Kte Dac. Mac Pro. Power Cond. BPT Signature+ 3.5, Gaia II Feet. USB Lush^V3. Nordost SPM IC and Spk. Shun Mook, BCanto CD2 CD3. Linn LP-12/Unitrack tonearm/Denon DL103R MC.
Thanks for the correction roberto, I hadn't looked at the manual in years,.. not sure why I remembered 2.5 db? 0.75 db seems much more accurate as the attenuation is rather minor even when adjusted all the way to the left or right.
-admin Home Theater in Member Gallery Main stereo: ART Amplifier and ET7s2. 2nd stereo: PV-14L and MV-55. Previously Owned: PF2 preamp, Evolution 2000 Amp, PV-12AL preamp, D/A-2b Vacuum-Tube Digital Processor.
Hey, that was not my intention to corrected you. There are so many audio goods in our brains, that we can not remember everything (this is my case- hitting the 72 years on this Dec 25th). I just checked out and and found how good this preamp is. .7 dB is an audiophile dream! Just enough for a little change. And a total of almost 4 dB of correction!...a jewel to use!
Have fun with your toys, dear friends! Happy listening!
ML CLX BF-210 Stage X Motion 4. CJ 120SE amp ET7V2 pre, Holo May Kte Dac. Mac Pro. Power Cond. BPT Signature+ 3.5, Gaia II Feet. USB Lush^V3. Nordost SPM IC and Spk. Shun Mook, BCanto CD2 CD3. Linn LP-12/Unitrack tonearm/Denon DL103R MC.
