Hi from Michigan

Tell us who you are. Old veteran, young newbie, just passing by, or here
to stay!
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bhmsonlib
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Hi from Michigan

Post by bhmsonlib »

Glad to be newly aboard! I own (and use) two C-J PV 10A preamps, a C-J MF 2500 amp, a C-J MF 2200 amp, and own a C-J HV-1 step transformer as well. My sources are a Thorens TD-166 Mk II TT (but with a Soundsmith cart, meaning I don't use the HV-1 now), Cambridge Audio Azur 840C CD player, and a Nakamichi Dragon cassette tape deck. My speakers are B & W "Nautilus" 804s. I listen, primarily, to Classical, Jazz, and (1983-'94) New Age (Windham Hill, Narada, Private, and American Gramaphone labels).

While I have friends who also use C-J equipment, and have read many reviews on C-J gear, as well as forum topics, it is nice to know there's a forum for us in which we all have some idea of what our stuff sounds like, and maybe have some insight regarding any perceived areas for improvement by people who won't tell you to "throw your system out and buy XYZ," if you get my drift!

No real issues at this time, outside of a perceived "leanness" in my lower midrange in certain types of Classical music which my technician believes is an issue with the speakers, not a C-J issue.

Anyway, glad to aboard with fellow Conrad-Johnson users! :)
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pstrisik
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Re: Hi from Michigan

Post by pstrisik »

Welcome Bret!

I've got a Thorens TD145MkII with a MicroAcoustics cart. Has served me well.

I've always thought B&W's sounded kind of forward and not presenting the warmth that CJ fans typically seek. I settled on vintage AR2ax's after restoring them (pots/caps/foam/finish). I have no desire to search more for speakers (for now anyway ;) ).
.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Peter


Dennis Had Inspire LP-2 preamp
Dennis Had Inspire KT150 amp
Thorens TD-145 MkII
Restored AR 2ax', Omega Super 7 XRS Alnicos
Cambridge Audio Stream Magic 6/DAC Magic +
[/color]
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Re: Hi from Michigan

Post by admin »

bhmsonlib,

Welcome to the site, it's great to have you. You have quite a number of CJ components there!

As for the "leanness" in the lower midrange, I wonder if that is more due to your speaker than any other specific component. Have you tried putting in another set of speakers and seeing if you still perceive this deficit?

Once again, welcome to our community and I look forward to hearing more from you!
-admin
Home Theater in Member Gallery
Main stereo: ART Amplifier and ET7s2. 2nd stereo: PV-14L and MV-55. Previously Owned: PF2 preamp, Evolution 2000 Amp, PV-12AL preamp, D/A-2b Vacuum-Tube Digital Processor.
bhmsonlib
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Re: Hi from Michigan

Post by bhmsonlib »

It's great to hear from both the Site Admin and from you in Alaska, Peter. I'm probably not going to change out the speakers. I find my B&W's give me enough warmth to make them versatile, both suitable with CJ stuff and possibly something else. As I noted, my technician does believe my "leanness" issue is with the speakers, and he has been a professional handling B&W's for years. The "Nautilus" series has what he described as a "sinkhole" for power in the midrange. He has suggested that I bi-amp the MF 2200 to the upper posts (above the crossover) and the MF 2500 to the lower (beneath the crossover) posts. He thinks that will help. It doesn't usually show up with Vintage New Age or Jazz, but if you put Mozart on that leanness will be there. The only other thing he suggests is a little subwoofer to assist the PV 10A's reviewed "rounding off" of lower bass. I'm 60-years old, so the reviewed "rounding off" of upper treble by the preamp I probably can't hear, anyway! ;)
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pstrisik
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Re: Hi from Michigan

Post by pstrisik »

I'm 60 also and have enough hearing loss to use H/A's. That is a whole 'nother issue about choosing the best H/A's, and then the best settings within them, for music. But I have some upper frequency sensitivity and have had to go pretty far on the continuum to find non-irritating sound. So, take my comments about the B&W's in that context.

I did some bi-amping of Salk SS-8's that I had for a bit. I used my Pr11A for the mid/high and a 2250A for the bass. It worked pretty well, though I had to balance the gain between them as they had different sensitivity. That may not be an issue with a 2200/2500. You can get the specs from CJ service if desired.

Here's what Ed had given me when I inquired (the 2250 spec may be of use to you):

MF 2250A - Sensitivity 1.5V / Gain 27.5 dB
Premier 11A - Sensitivity 950mV / Gain 26.5 dB

The gain of the two amps is close enough that it will not matter, but the difference in sensitivity is such that
the Premier 11A will be significantly louder. The ideal solution is to have two identical amps. I will attempt to
find out if it is feasible to use some kind of attenuator.
I did use inline attenuators. I can get you the source if you want it.
.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Peter


Dennis Had Inspire LP-2 preamp
Dennis Had Inspire KT150 amp
Thorens TD-145 MkII
Restored AR 2ax', Omega Super 7 XRS Alnicos
Cambridge Audio Stream Magic 6/DAC Magic +
[/color]
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antaresbluespirit
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Re: Hi from Michigan

Post by antaresbluespirit »

welcome Bret...

So, the PV10A remains a good value and should be recommanded for any vinyl lover since its "matter" in music reproduction is unrivalled at this price...

what kind of tube is it fitted with ?

regards

Raymond (from france)
bhmsonlib
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Re: Hi from Michigan

Post by bhmsonlib »

Bonjour, Raymond! I will not attempt French with you, however. My French is so rusty that... well, the last time I used it was in Quebec City in 1985. Yes, the PV 10A is a great value! Used, and given a checkover by Ed at C-J, it performs wonderfully. Aside from the reviewed "rounding off" of really high trebles and really low bass, its only other problem is that its RCA jacks, while very good, are not the "Tiffany" level jacks used by the best C-J preamps. Buy one, send it to Ed for a checkup, and enjoy! Tubes vary slightly depending on which PV 10 you buy. Both the PV 10 and the PV 10A use a 12AX7 tube for both the V1 and V2 sockets. Both use a 12AT7 for the V3. The PV 10 uses a 5751 for V4, while the PV 10A uses a 12AU7 for V4. The PV 10 uses a 12AT7 for V5, while the PV 10A uses a 12AU7 in V5. The replacement set (from C-J) for the PV 10 is RT10, while it's RT10A for the PV 10A. Does that help?

Peter, I have the manuals for both the MF 2200 and the MF 2500. While I will have to ask Ed about the gain, the sensitivity of both amps is very similar: 2.0 V for the MF 2200, and 1.9 V for the MF 2500. Aside from actual power (at 8 ohms impedance) differences (200 WPC vs. 240 WPC), and the fact that the MF 2500 has slightly better internal electronics for a more refined sound than the MF 2200, the other differences between the two amps (aside from weight!) seem to be that the MF 2500 handles heat issues much better than the MF 2200 (it doesn't work as hard), and the binding posts. Ed already solved that issue for me the last time I sent the MF 2200 down to him, as he installed MF 2500 binding posts on my 2200! I do need to send the 2200 back to him, though, as it has developed a hum, not audible through the speakers, but within the amp, itself. I intend to ask him about any differences in gain, then, and about speaker cables. The cables I have right now running from the 2500 to my "Nautilus" 804s are Straightwire single bi-wired "Serenade" cables. Obviously, to bi-amp, I will have to "baggie" off my unused set on the bi-wires to keep them apart, and dig out my old set of speaker cables, some AudioQuest "Crystal Lite" cables. My memory (not always correct) tells me that the Straightwires are considerably more refined, while the AudioQuest's are "punchier." So it may be that the 2200 gets the "Serenades," while the 2500 gets the "Crystal Lites." I will experiment, or maybe Ed will just tell me to buy another set of "Serenades," but not single bi-wired. Whew! Enough! :|

Bret in Michigan
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Re: Hi from Michigan

Post by bhmsonlib »

Hey, I didn't mean "enough" from you guys. Advice and information is always welcome! I meant "enough" from me for one post!

Bret in Michigan
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Re: Hi from Michigan

Post by bhmsonlib »

If anybody is still reading this, I just wanted to let you that bi-amping worked! Too well. The B & W Nautilus 804's just woke up said "Hello!" There is no longer any leanness in my lower midrange whatsoever. I had said that B&W's were power "sinkholes," and they are. 240 WPC simply wasn't enough for them. 440 WPC wakes them right up! But too well. I live in a Condo, and my bass is also now "thunder and lightening." Even with the PV 10A set to below 20% power, with that penetrating bass, I'm getting "turn it down" calls from my neighbor. I listen at 15% now. You can almost whisper over it. I love my system. But I need to move!

Bret in Michigan
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Re: Hi from Michigan

Post by admin »

Congrats on the system improvements. I think it's time to move! :) When I moved into my first house, one of the first priorities was building the hometheater/listening room. It took a little while to get everything together gut it was great to have a dedicated room that I could play whatever, whenever, and at whatever volume I liked.

How about some pics of the setup? I would like to see the biamp setup.
-admin
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Main stereo: ART Amplifier and ET7s2. 2nd stereo: PV-14L and MV-55. Previously Owned: PF2 preamp, Evolution 2000 Amp, PV-12AL preamp, D/A-2b Vacuum-Tube Digital Processor.
bhmsonlib
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Re: Hi from Michigan

Post by bhmsonlib »

I will do so if I can overcome my 61-year old limitations in technology use! I have a photo on my iPhone 4. Now I just have to figure out how to send it.

Looking for a rental house now. Only real limitations are that the electricity must be good, living room large enough, and the floors either be made of wood (I Mapleshade, complete with maple platforms and brass footers) or carpet over at least plywood. No tile or slabs.

Bret in Michigan
bhmsonlib
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Re: Hi from Michigan

Post by bhmsonlib »

Hello again. Sorry to be gone for so long (22 months), but didn't send a photo and had nothing to really say. But now, I have backed off from bi-amping. Two reasons for this. 1., the MF-2200's heat issues were becoming a problem. I bought a vintage Scott Type 350B tube tuner, and it would only fit into my setup on the shelf above the MF-2500, which meant my Cambridge Audio Azur 840C CD player had to go above the MF-2200. Even through a 3/4 inch shelf, the MF-2200 was "cooking" the CD player. Too hot! 2., I discovered what my problem was with my "lean" lower midrange. It wasn't my B&W Nautilus 804 speakers. I bought a new set of speaker cables to replace the old AudioQuest Crystal Lites I had going from the MF-2500 to the lower posts on the speakers. I bought Tributaries Series 8's. When I went back to just running the MF-2500 rather than bi-amping, on a whim, I left the Tributaries speaker cables on instead of reinstalling my Straightwire Serenades. There was no leanness in the lower midrange at all! The bass was just as good, too. If I lost anything, it was just a touch of the treble "magic" (you know, when crystal treble sounds seem to "get up and dance around the room"). I lost none of this in recordings in which it is "designed" to be there (like certain New Age recordings), but just a little in ones in which it comes as a surprise. By the way, I replaced my 30-year old Thorens TD-166 Mk. II turntable with a Clearaudio Concept TT, too. Just wanted a little support from a company in back of me (and spare parts available!). I still have the Soundsmith "Boheme" cart on the turntable. Anyway, my MF-2200 has gone back to its previous role as a "backup" amp to the MF-2500. My system still sounds beautiful, and, while I can turn it up a little, now (I still live in the Condo), I still can't go over 20% (9 o'clock on the Level control) for most things (except very small ensemble Baroque stuff), and lower on jazz with a really prominent acoustic bass line. Well, that's all. I answered the two-week old question I got regarding bi-amping. I'm not a technician, so my answer was pretty simple. Just what I know.

Bret in Michigan
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