I'm the happy new owner of a PV-15 (and MF-2500-A)
I'm going to be wiring this up using the 'home theater bypass' - anyone have any tricks or tips for me when I do this?
Thanks!
PV-15
Re: PV-15
Welcome to the site, it's great to have you.
What exactly do you mean by "home theater bypass?" I run dual setups in my home theater. Separate setup for music as well as movies. Let us know, I'm sure we can give you some tips. Have a great day.
What exactly do you mean by "home theater bypass?" I run dual setups in my home theater. Separate setup for music as well as movies. Let us know, I'm sure we can give you some tips. Have a great day.
-admin
Home Theater in Member Gallery
Main stereo: ART Amplifier and ET7s2. 2nd stereo: PV-14L and MV-55. Previously Owned: PF2 preamp, Evolution 2000 Amp, PV-12AL preamp, D/A-2b Vacuum-Tube Digital Processor.
Home Theater in Member Gallery
Main stereo: ART Amplifier and ET7s2. 2nd stereo: PV-14L and MV-55. Previously Owned: PF2 preamp, Evolution 2000 Amp, PV-12AL preamp, D/A-2b Vacuum-Tube Digital Processor.
Re: PV-15
Just out of curiosity, Since I've never used "Home Theater Bypass"...
If I connect a device to the Home Theater preamp Input, and select Home theater on the preamp, the preamp's volume control is bypassed, right? Assuming then that the up-stream home theater electronics has it's own volume control...right?
IF however, someone were to hook a Line-Level device, with no volume control, to the "Home Theater" input, then select it as an input, it would be FULL VOLUME due to the bypass of the preamp's internal volume control.
If I connect a device to the Home Theater preamp Input, and select Home theater on the preamp, the preamp's volume control is bypassed, right? Assuming then that the up-stream home theater electronics has it's own volume control...right?
IF however, someone were to hook a Line-Level device, with no volume control, to the "Home Theater" input, then select it as an input, it would be FULL VOLUME due to the bypass of the preamp's internal volume control.
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Magnepan 20.7
Conrad Johnson ART 300
Conrad Johnson GAT V2
Meitner MA 1 V2
Custom Server running MC 23
Dual Synology 1512+ 12 TB total storage
Magnepan 20.7
Conrad Johnson ART 300
Conrad Johnson GAT V2
Meitner MA 1 V2
Custom Server running MC 23
Dual Synology 1512+ 12 TB total storage
-
Good Dog Jocko
- Frequent User
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:45 pm
Re: PV-15
I use a PV-14L and EV-1 setup running through an MF-2250 amp. The PV-14L is the forerunner of the PV-15 and the MF-2250 is just a slightly smaller MF-2500.
One night I went and got one of my big circular telescope counterweights, the 7.5# size, which is a big hunk of iron, and sat it directly over the power transformer on the MF-2250 top cover. If you do not know where your power transformer is, take off the top cover. It is near the right front corner on the MF-2250 and I suppose in the same place on the MF-2500. While some people buy the expensive Shakti devices to set over their power transformer, I suppose a counterweight or barbell weight of mild steel does about the same thing. Any stray lines of flux will be sucked up toward the huge hunk of iron, the path of least resistance, instead of cutting across your circuit board traces and exposed circuit wiring. It quieted down my amp by a noticeable degree.
The electrical power is so dirty around here that it sometimes makes fluorescent lights flicker, to the point I have replaced lamps and the new lamp did the same thing. I hooked up an oscilloscope to my wall outlet and see that my AC power has very noticeable flatspots on the top and bottom of the waveforms. The flatspotting and fluorescent lamp flickering are worst from the late afternoon to when most folks go to bed. Almost all electronic gear has switching power supplies these days, and maybe it gets reflected back onto the power lines. Your linear power supply in your MF-2500 does not suck current from the wall outlet except at waveform peaks, and those turn-on and turn-off spikes have to be accounted for and they can affect your circuitry in a negative fashion. Maybe the big hunk of iron over the transformer absorbs stray flux fields involved in the inductive kick manner that the power transformer supplies power to the capacitor bank. Who knows. It works for me.
One night I went and got one of my big circular telescope counterweights, the 7.5# size, which is a big hunk of iron, and sat it directly over the power transformer on the MF-2250 top cover. If you do not know where your power transformer is, take off the top cover. It is near the right front corner on the MF-2250 and I suppose in the same place on the MF-2500. While some people buy the expensive Shakti devices to set over their power transformer, I suppose a counterweight or barbell weight of mild steel does about the same thing. Any stray lines of flux will be sucked up toward the huge hunk of iron, the path of least resistance, instead of cutting across your circuit board traces and exposed circuit wiring. It quieted down my amp by a noticeable degree.
The electrical power is so dirty around here that it sometimes makes fluorescent lights flicker, to the point I have replaced lamps and the new lamp did the same thing. I hooked up an oscilloscope to my wall outlet and see that my AC power has very noticeable flatspots on the top and bottom of the waveforms. The flatspotting and fluorescent lamp flickering are worst from the late afternoon to when most folks go to bed. Almost all electronic gear has switching power supplies these days, and maybe it gets reflected back onto the power lines. Your linear power supply in your MF-2500 does not suck current from the wall outlet except at waveform peaks, and those turn-on and turn-off spikes have to be accounted for and they can affect your circuitry in a negative fashion. Maybe the big hunk of iron over the transformer absorbs stray flux fields involved in the inductive kick manner that the power transformer supplies power to the capacitor bank. Who knows. It works for me.